Where to Stay in Tortola
Caribbean Guides
Where to Stay in Tortola
A Local Guide, Part of the Where to Stay in the Caribbean Series
Tortola is the sailing capital of the Caribbean, but I rarely think of it as the destination. I think of it as the beginning. This is where most British Virgin Islands trips start, whether you are chartering a sailboat, catching ferries to the outer islands, or spending a few nights before heading somewhere quieter.
It is also where Jimmy Buffett famously found the inspiration for “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” After a long, difficult passage with little more than canned food aboard, he finally made it into Road Town, ordered a cheeseburger, and wrote one of his most iconic songs. Over the years plenty of places have claimed the story, but Buffett himself consistently pointed to Tortola. (Wikipedia)
Even if you never step on a boat, Tortola is still one of the best bases for exploring the rest of the BVI.
If You Only Read One Paragraph
| Ferry terminals, marinas, and the start of every charter | Road Town |
| Purpose built for sailors, arrival day made easy | Nanny Cay |
| A quieter pace, with ferries to the US Virgin Islands | West End |
| Tortola’s most famous beach and anchorage | Cane Garden Bay |
| Convenient for late arrivals and early flights | Beef Island |
Fast Facts
Tortola in 30 Seconds
Best for
Sailing, island hopping, charter vacations, and exploring the British Virgin Islands.
Skip if
You’re looking for a single beach resort where you’ll never leave the property.
Airport
Terrance B. Lettsome International (EIS).
Rental car?
Maybe. If you’re staying on land, I’d rent one. If you’re chartering a yacht, you probably won’t need one.
Ferry access
Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, Anegada, and the US Virgin Islands.
Average hotel cost
About $150 to $800+ per night.
Best months
December through April.
Should You Rent a Car?
It depends.
If you’re spending your trip on Tortola, having a car makes life much easier. The roads are steep and winding, taxis aren’t cheap, and you’ll want the flexibility to explore beaches and restaurants on your own schedule. I use Discover Cars to compare local agencies and book ahead, especially in high season.
If you’re chartering a yacht, I’d usually skip it. Most people provision, spend one night near the marina, and then spend the rest of the week on the water.
Best Areas to Stay
The Sailing Hub
Road Town
Ferry terminals, marinas, and the start of every charter.
Road Town isn’t the prettiest town in the Caribbean, but that’s not why you’re here. It’s the center of everything, with ferry terminals, marinas, grocery stores, restaurants, and marine services. If you’re sailing, this is where the trip begins.
Best for: Charter guests, ferry connections, and a first or last night.
The Charter Base
Nanny Cay
Purpose built for sailors, with everything arrival day requires.
Nanny Cay is purpose built for sailors. If you’re chartering with companies like The Moorings, Sunsail, or Horizon Yacht Charters, there’s a good chance you’ll start here. Everything is designed to make arrival day easy.
Best for: Charter guests and anyone starting or ending a sailing trip.
The Quiet Crossing
West End
Soper’s Hole Marina, and ferries to St. John and St. Thomas.
Quieter than Road Town, with Soper’s Hole Marina and ferries to St. John and St. Thomas. If you’re connecting between the USVI and the BVI, it’s a convenient place to spend the night.
Best for: Ferry connections and a slower pace.
The Postcard Beach
Cane Garden Bay
Calm water, anchored sailboats, and afternoons that stretch on forever.
One of Tortola’s most famous beaches, Cane Garden Bay is exactly what most people picture when they imagine the British Virgin Islands. Calm water, anchored sailboats, beach bars, and afternoons that seem to stretch on forever.
Jimmy Buffett even gave the bay a nod in Mañana, with the line, “I hear it gets better, that’s what they say, as soon as we sail on to Cane Garden Bay.” If you’ve sailed into this anchorage before, you know exactly what he meant. (jimmybuffett.com)
Best for: Beach days, beach bars, and first time visitors.
The Airport Landing
Beef Island
Convenient for late arrivals and early flights.
This area is mostly about convenience. If you’re landing late or catching an early flight, staying near the airport saves a long drive across the island.
Best for: Arrival and departure nights.
My Favorite Hotels
Photo courtesy of Nanny Cay Resort & Marina
Nanny Cay · Mid Range ($180-320/night)
Nanny Cay Resort & Marina
Purpose-built for sailors, steps from the charter docks.
Why I love it: If I’m starting or ending a charter, this is where I’d stay. Everything you need is within walking distance.
Stay here if: You’re chartering a boat.
Skip it if: You’re looking for a quiet beach vacation.
Photo courtesy of Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort
East End · Mid Range ($200-350/night)
Wyndham Tortola BVI Lambert Beach Resort
An easy beachfront landing right after Beef Island.
Why I love it: One of the easiest beachfront resorts after flying into Beef Island.
Stay here if: You want a simple resort close to the airport.
Skip it if: You want nightlife or lots of restaurants nearby.
Photo courtesy of Long Bay Beach Resort
West End · Upper Mid Range ($250-450/night)
Long Bay Beach Resort
Tortola’s most beautiful resort beach, worlds away from Road Town.
Why I love it: Probably my favorite resort on Tortola. Long Bay is gorgeous, Smuggler’s Cove is nearby, and it feels worlds away from Road Town.
Stay here if: You want a few relaxing beach days before or after sailing.
Skip it if: You need to be close to the marinas.
Photo courtesy of the Sugar Mill Hotel
Great Carrot Bay · Boutique ($350-550/night)
Sugar Mill Hotel
A 400-year-old sugar mill turned into one of the island’s best small hotels.
Why I love it: Small, quiet, and home to one of the island’s best restaurants. It feels like the old Caribbean.
Stay here if: You’re traveling as a couple and prefer boutique hotels.
Skip it if: You want a large resort with lots of amenities.
Photo courtesy of Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina
Scrub Island · Luxury ($450-800/night)
Scrub Island Resort, Spa & Marina
A private island bookend to a sailing trip.
Why I love it: A beautiful place to bookend a sailing trip. Once you’re here, you really don’t need to leave.
Stay here if: You’re celebrating something special.
Skip it if: You plan to explore Tortola every day.
The Best Way to See the British Virgin Islands
If you only take one piece of advice from this guide, let it be this: don’t spend your entire vacation on Tortola.
The British Virgin Islands were made to be explored by boat. Whether you charter your own yacht, hire a skipper, or simply use the ferries, the real magic isn’t staying in one place. It’s waking up somewhere different every morning.
If you’re interested in chartering, I’d start with The Moorings or Sunsail. Both have large fleets based at Tortola, offer everything from bareboat sailboats to fully crewed catamarans, and are excellent choices whether it’s your first charter or your fiftieth.
From there, head for Norman Island, Cooper Island, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and, if you have the time, Anegada. Every island has its own personality, and seeing them by boat is what makes the British Virgin Islands unlike anywhere else in the Caribbean.
Tortola is where the trip begins. The rest of the BVI is why you came.
A Sample BVI Itinerary
Day 1: Fly into Beef Island and spend the night at Nanny Cay or Long Bay Beach Resort.
Days 2 to 3: Visit Virgin Gorda. Explore The Baths, then continue into North Sound.
Day 4: Spend the day at Jost Van Dyke. Swim into White Bay, have a Painkiller at the Soggy Dollar Bar, and stay for dinner at Foxy’s.
Days 5 to 6: If your schedule allows, make the trip to Anegada for lobster, empty beaches, and some of the clearest water in the Caribbean before returning to Tortola for your flight home.
Next
Continue exploring the rest of the islands in the Where to Stay in the Caribbean series, including the outer BVI anchorages this itinerary points toward.
Written from Palma, Mallorca.
39° 33.35′ N, 2° 37.57′ E
CONTINUE EXPLORING
The Caribbean, Island by Island
Where to Stay in the Caribbean
Anegada · Anguilla · Antigua · Dominica · Jost Van Dyke · Nevis · St. Barths · St. Kitts · St. Lucia · St. Martin / Sint Maarten · Virgin Gorda
